Valparaíso

After a leisurely breakfast, we set off to go to Valparaíso. It is one of the South Pacific's most important seaports and was once known by international sailors as "Little San Francisco" and "The Jewel of the Pacific". The opening of the Panama Canal and reduction in ship traffic dealt it a staggering blow in the second half of the 20th century but its fortunes have revived in the past 15 years due to tourism and the artistic & cultural entrepreneurs who have set up shop in the city's historic hillside districts.

We took the very efficient metro back to the bus estacion where we arrived yesterday & bought tickets on Tur Bus to Valparaíso; the passengers in the adjacent paso (line) were much amused by my broken Spanish dealings with the ticket seller who fortunately was nimbly assisted in English by her colleague.

Buses every 15 minutes so in no time we were on an excellent bus: so cheap - under 12000 pesos return for the two of us (about $US 24)!

The bus travels up through dry, arid hills; alongside very large vineyards; through two very long tunnels; olive groves; orchards; some plots of pine trees; heaps of eucalypts (!); HUGE road toll stations; some very big nice-looking homes tucked away. Even a Macca's!!! For the first time in this trip, there are a lot of very nice cars to be seen.

And about 2 hours later (120 kms) we are deposited in Valparaíso - apparently a cartographer's nightmare. We will walk a lot today

President Pinochet was born in Valparaíso in 1915. He was dictator of Chile between 1973 & 1990; and commander-in-chief of the army until 1998. He was a terrible man: it is claimed that between 1,200 and 3,200 people were killed, up to 80,000 people were interned and as many as 30,000 were tortured during his time in government.

Well, what an amazing day. More than I could have expected. We walked 13.5 kms and up some hills so steep that if cars had to stop it was a test of the driver's hill-start capabilities. One stalled badly, slid back, belched smoke and, tyres squealing, stuttered up the road.

Sometimes, there were stairs only; sometimes only ascensors or lifts which creaked up & down the hills called cerros.

We started at the bottom on the flat: El Prato is where the big parks & monuments & government buildings are. There was a large market where we bought bananas & took photos but were warned to be careful by some passing locals!

We climbed up away from the port through narrow streets & the onslaught of colour was astonishing. A bit like Rio but on steroids, if possible. If it couldn't be nailed down, it was painted.

We went up to Cerro Bellavista first. Then Cerro Concepción & Cerro Alegre.

And how about this at your front gate!!!

The sun was fully out by now being the middle of the day. I'd forgotten my hat ... as we walked down, I tore off a piece of cardboard from some packing boxes stacked in the street to "make do".

The colours, the buildings, the views were amazing. The bright bougainvillaea helped. Loquat trees are popular.

Down the bottom again, we saw a cafe and had some quite good coffee plus the most wonderful piece of cake. Trace ole buddy, if you are still following this blog, eat your heart out!

We found a mini supermarket & bought more water & set off up to Cerro Concepción & Cerro Alegre, both artsy areas. And don't you just love this?!!!

At Concepción there was a mirador (viewpoint) with wonderful views over the port. My Friend says the Chilean Navy is based here.

There were some gorgeous little shops & I bought a hat at one (surprisingly cheap!).

Hot, hot, hot! But there was some breeze and we carefully picked the sides of the streets with shade. So did the dogs who for once were not seeking the sun as they did further south!

We took the ascensor at Concepción back down to the port, 300 pesos each (60 cents)! Que?!!!!

Then stopped at a pleasant cafe in Plaza Echaurren. It was now about 5:00 p.m. and we enjoyed the sit-down & time to reflect on what a great day it had been.

It was a longish walk back to the bus station past shops & lots of market stalls along the pavements, now quite crowded.

Arrived at the bus station at 5 to 6 and, as we had an open ticket, checked in and were on the bus for the 6:00 p.m. departure back to Santiago.

Again, we used the efficient (& cheap) metro to return to our barrio of Providencia where we did a quick change & launched out for dinnner at a great local bar which served Chilean food & had great music, plus a very sweet waiter! I had Chupe de Jaiba recommended by the waiter: baked crab with cheese.