Back to El Calafate

The wind blew like a fury all night & the timbers of the hostería creaked all night long too (as did my weary body); consequently, I didn't sleep much.

Probably the nicest breakfast so far. Whilst it didn't officially begin until 7:00 a.m., Joaquim was up - with the fire roaring: a welcome sight! It seems like you have to be up early to get the fruit plus the cereal with nuts & dried fruits (we had been having our breakfast quite late the past two days & missed out on these). Another plus was that there was power this morning (unlike the previous two), so we got toast also.

Sebastian was also up early - as promised - & we left before 7:00 a.m. for our last journey out from El Pilar.

It was raining. We were cutting it fine for the 7:30 a.m. bus I thought, but we got there in time - although there was a queue at the ticket booth where we needed to pay our taxes (!) of 5 pesos per person: about $US1 for the two of us, on unofficial rates ....

We enjoyed the colours of the Patagonian steppe; and endured another road stop at La Leona with the cold wind blasting through our jackets.

The sun was coming out as we neared El Calafate. We have a day here back at our posada where we will confirm final details for the exit out of El Calafate tomorrow & into Chile. Led Zepellin playing as we travel along.

We reach a "border post" on the outskirts of El Calafate. We were waved through this on the outward trip but this time the bus is pulled over & a policia (police) - a woman, in this case - checks the driver's paperwork & disappears up the back of the bus, remaining there for at least a few minutes. I don't look around, even out of curiosity. But when we get into the bus station, I ask at the Informacion, because I AM INTERESTED! In broken English, I have a short conversation that eventually delivers up the word "cocaine" so I imagine they are checking for drugs - & probably desperados.

We walk to our posada (you must be making out some of these Spanish words by now, eh? - well, B&B) & get wi-fi. Fortunately there is an email both from Martin in Buenos Aires re our transport out to Torres del Paine tomorrow morning - we just have to go & pay at the office; & an email from my 'pal', Patrizia, in Puerto Natales, who is to meet us when we get in tomorrow & arrange the final transfer into the national park.

A BIG day of travel tomorrow. Departure scheduled for 5:30 a.m. A border to cross from Argentina into Chile also. No food allowed at border.

We spend the remainder of the day relaxing by wandering the main street of El Calafate & having some lunch (which will possibly double for dinner). It is now just after 6:00 p.m. & we are enjoying a drink in a cute place looking out over Nimez Lagoon where we did the bird sanctuary walk the day we arrived (last Saturday).

Then back to packing backpacks for our big trek.