El Chaltén (2)

Tuesday 11 November

Had a sleep-in, for a change! Rained overnight. Room very hot even with a window open, so woke a few times during the night.

Have come into town on mini-bus with Sebastián - he is a very cool dude: very Argentinian. Shades of Bob Marley.

We are at the Youth Hostel with the thickest hot chocolate I have ever had - & wi-fi!

Well, we left the town about midday - knowing that the forecast was for conditions to improve later in the day & given that it is still late here after 9 p.m., we feel OK to set off to tackle Lago de los Tres once more (at a late start time for us!) - via a different route. Our aim was to get a sighting of Mt. FitzRoy, if the conditions allowed.

FitzRoy, at 3405m, is considered one of the most beautiful mountains on Earth.

Boy, what an amazing day! I reckon it had to be the nicest walk I've ever done. There was a climb out of the township with views back over it.

The weather improved & it was a delight to walk in sunshine. Great views out to mountains with snow, beautiful vegetation, lovely colours in rocky outcrops, blue sky. Just wonderful. The mirador (viewpoint) at the top of this section revealed some mountains that a bunch of us spent 10 or 15 minutes trying to work out the assorted peaks from the map.

Then lo & behold: the wind swept the cloud by: & moment by moment revealed one, then two more peaks further back - & finally, to the astonishment of everyone gathered there, this absolutely enormous peak - that soared above all else around it - revealed itself, although with cloud still clinging resolutely to it. This was the great Mt. FitzRoy. It was awesome to get this glimpse.

The climb flattened out to eventually join the meadow - and the Poincenot campsite - that we had walked up to yesterday from El Pilar (where we are staying).

From Poincenot, we had an incredibly steep climb up to the viewpoint over 3 lakes. It was steep but also a technically difficult walk through ice & snow for the last half of the climb to the top. Not only was there the view to the lakes from here but the peak of Mt. FitzRoy suddenly loomed into view as we passed the last bend in the climb. Cloud kept passing back & forth over it. Never have I seen such a menacing mountain. We were so close you felt you could almost touch it. It probably was still miles away.

Eventually I had enough of FitzRoy. It was time to go down. It was a treacherous walk down, picking our way through very slippery terrain - but the walk in the late afternoon light was amazing & one I will never forget.

Very sore knees by the time we got down. We returned via the track to El Pilar & were very pleased to see the hosteria with the smoke puffing out from the chimney - hike distance: 23 kms!

We got in about 8 p.m. - stuffed! Not sure that anyone would pay much attention if you didn't return from a walk. Or it might take a day before a search was started, although I'm not sure I'd rely on this happening. Certainly there is nowhere to register your intentions, so I’m not sure how they would know where to look anyway. Casual & relaxed is good - up to a point!

The trip down from the Poincenot camping ground had been accompanied by snow falling lightly. The wind was now picking up & we were pleased to be in because it became very very strong.

The forecast is for sun tomorrow - but more wind!

Dinner was another lovely affair: the nicest spinach sopa (soup) I think I have ever had. Plus the loveliest baked salmon with pumpkin. All beautifully presented. Accompanied by Pink Floyd (possibly Argentinian version ...). Nice.

Had a long chat to Grace tonight, one of the staff. She previously lived in Australia for 15 years. Went there with her parents. At age 17, married an Argentinian who she met at a soccer match there! Two children: one is studying in Australia. Divorced now (he went off with her best friend). She works 6 months at El Pilar in the summer (October to April), then returns to Buenos Aires for 6 months where she paints textiles & these get sold at a market. She is very happy - & LOVES Patagonia.

There are 3 young lads: Sebastián (who seems to be odd-jobs man as well as driver for the lodge); Joaquin; and Tommaseo from the Dolomites in Italy - his English is excellent. The "team" is wonderful: very helpful & pleasant.