We have just returned from doing the final sector of the 'W-Trek' (the last part of the 'W') & are feeling pretty chuffed. Over 22 kms return & involving a solid hike up all the way to the Mirador at the base of the Towers, this is the highlight of the park: Las Torres are what everyone comes to see, if they can.
We got a tantalising glimpse of the granite Towers (Las Torres) as we passed Campamento Chileno which was tucked away in a beautiful valley. The walk to here was quite sensational: we ascended first to 470 m; from here we were hit by tough wind in spots but the walk along the ridge hugging the rim of the valley with the river ice blue & gushing along deep down below was just wonderful.
We dropped steeply down to the Campamento (camping ground), passing walkers we'd met on the trail yesterday: Mr Keens Boots & Mr Timberland Boots who had camped overnight at Refugio Chileno & told us as we passed them that yesterday you could see nothing, the weather was foul & it had been snowing.
At the camp, the Towers disappeared quickly behind cloud, & just after this, as we crossed one of the many bridges that criss-crossed over the river, we met the young fellows - walking in sandshoes & taking photos of everything with their i-phones - that we had also met yesterday. They were very excited to see us & told us that they'd been to the Mirador up further & proudly showed us their lovely photos.
The I-Phone Lads really inspired us, although of course there was no way we'd be doing the walk in an hour & a half like they had. Young legs!
We started another ascent getting quickly to 540 m & another delightful lad - who we keep meeting intermittently - dashed past saying to me that he hoped he'd be walking as well as me when he gets to my age! Nice!
It was good going up through lenga (beech) forest: pretty, although muddy in spots.
The climb went on - & on, but we were doing pretty well & came out finally into a steep gravelly treeless escarpment & a final climb across a ridge covered in immense rocks with mountains with snow rising up with us; and finally we rounded a bend to reach Las Torres at 886 m with a turquoise lake at the base.
Here they are: majestic! The tallest rising to over 2800 m - but initially, they were covered in cloud. We put on a second parka against the chill & bunkered down amongst the huge rocks to have our lunch in a sunny, sheltered spot.
We were thrilled to bits when the cloud lifted & we got to see the elusive Towers. This view is a notoriously fickle one to catch since Patagonia’s changeable weather can leave hikers struggling to see their hand in front of their face never mind the stone giants just beyond the lake.
We did a photo swap with a couple from LA who we had met up with over dinner last night. She had been taken by horse to the Campamento because of a bad knee. He had "walked" (run?) up like a gazelle, beating the horses.
We enjoyed our time up there 'high-fiving' it but had to face the descent. More & more people were making their way up; I'm not sure if all would be rewarded as the weather was coming in, shrouding the mountains in cloud. It was lightly snowing also.
It was a pleasant walk back but tiring on the feet & knees. The walking sticks helped in many spots but often it was a case of hanging onto rocks & trees for support; many of the trees in fact had their trunks worn slippery and shiny at elbow height where no doubt hundreds (thousands?) of hands had reached out over time to hold on.
We were pleased to get back in. Down below the sun was out & quite hot now.
We celebrate with una cerveza (beer) for My Friend & a Torres del Paine cocktail for me: vodka, jugo de piña (pineapple juice), triple sec & calafate liqueur.
We join Mark & Nancy from LA for dinner & toasted to our achievements. My Friend in particular is grateful to have completed the trek given that 12 months ago he was only 4 weeks into his recovery from heart surgery; & I am grateful too that my body got me through: thanks to my physio Lisa Barry & osteo, Bailey Lang (& girls: I have been doing my exercises & stretches!).
We are off to bed now. Hotel Las Torres is a working estancia (ranch or farm) & outside right now the horses are grazing. There is a pink glow in the sky leaking over the hills as the sun sets some place far away. It is really delightful.
Walked 23 kms.
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