Andean Lakes Crossing: Puerto Varas to San Carlos de Bariloche

Have just enjoyed a picnic by a reedy watery spot just after disembarking from the boat crossing of Lagos los Todos.

We left early this morning walking our bags the 15 minutes to the bus station in the centre of Puerto Varas. We travelled by bus to Ensenada to enter the Vincent Pérez Rosales NP, one of many national parks in Chile, but this is the oldest (1926). We paid 1500 pesos ($US3) each to see Petrohué Cascades, which flow foaming and powerful through a canyon of volcanic rock formed by lava flows; & then continued 6 kms by bus to board the first cruise of the day.

Sadly the day is overcast so no volcano to be seen. But we can't complain as we had such a splendid day with "picture perfect" views of Osorno yesterday in Puerto Varas.

The cruise was pleasant; nothing outstanding. The light improved as we came into the landing point here at Peulla. Rather than take the bus into town, we opted to walk & are being rewarded with this delightful picnic spot in the sun with nice views, lots of birds twittering - albeit accompanied by a chilly wind.

We are the only 2 people here, everyone else having gone into town or onto tours such as 4 x 4 driving, zip-lining, kayaking, etc. or just to eat at the restaurant.

Very peaceful zzzzzz

Peulla is very isolated. The only access is by boat. There is no road. The children of the small population that lives here, including from isolated farms around the lake, attend a school here.

After a somewhat longer break than seemed necessary but was probably constructed for people to eat & drink at the restaurant, we were collected in a 4WD bus that proceeded a mere 800 m or so to the Chilean border which was a straightforward affair; we then drove about 30 kms: up high to 1000 m along an unpaved, very narrow road and descended to Lago Frias for the Argentinean border control, passing by Tronador Volcano (3,491 m), which marks the actual border with Argentina.

So goodbye Chile for now. We return again in about a week's time when we go to the capital, Santiago.

From Lago Frias, we had a short half-hour journey across Lake Frias. It was about 5:00 p.m. by now & the light was getting dull but there were still some lovely views of the emerald waters while we waited for the boat to arrive & luggage transferred from the bus.

A short bus trip from Puerto Allegre to Puerto Blest, followed by a much longer excursion by boat across Lake Nahuel Huapi to San Carlos de Bariloche with lovely evening light.

It has been a long day (too long!), not getting in until well after 9:00 p.m. 

Bariloche (as it is known) is looking very colourful due to masses of bright yellow flowers that look like broom (in fact it is Scotch broom, Cytisus scoparius). In the late 1800s, Bariloche was settled by Germans, Austrians & Slovenians & there is a distinctly "little Switzerland" air about it with the alpine chalet-like buildings. It is a major tourism centre for skiing & trekking. I have never seen so many hotels as we came into town on the bus from the port.

We had a picada for dinner at the hotel - turned out to be a plate of cheese & ham plus some pickled onion, carrot, cauliflower, etc.; not really what I wanted but at least we know now what a picada is!?